What Does Retinol Do: Retinol For Skin & Acne + Side Effects 

For years, retinol has been a mainstay in the beauty and skin care aisles. It's known as the go-to ingredient for the most common skin issues, including acne and wrinkles. Despite its widespread name recognition, folks many not truly know what is retinol, what it does to the skin, and if they should incorporate it into their routine.

"Retinol" refers to a compound derived from vitamin A, an essential micronutrient. Vitamin A isn't naturally synthesized by the body, so it needs to be supplied.

It's available over-the-counter (OTC) at low strengths. Retinol falls under the umbrella term "retinoids," which includes all vitamin A derivatives—both OTC and prescription. But sometimes, "retinol" is used for vitamin A itself, or it's used interchangeably with "retinoid." 

Though we're all about improving collagen synthesis from the inside out, it's important to help your skin topically too. One of the best ways to do this is to apply retinol, which the skin literally has receptors for.

"Retinol binds to retinoid receptors within skin cells," says board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D. This "activates genes that upregulate collagen production." This effect was observed in a small human study, where retinol treatment stimulated collagen production1 in mature skin, helping decrease the appearance of wrinkling. 

And as it turns out, retinol works hard to get to those retinol receptors.

The retinol molecule "is able to penetrate the skin's surface and activate a variety of cells in the skin," explains board-certified dermatologist Melanie Palm, M.D., MBA. "In the second layer of the skin, retinol penetrates cells called fibroblasts—the major collagen builders of our skin."

"Besides stimulating production of new collagen, retinol enhances cell turnover," says Zeichner. "This means it sheds dead and damaged cells that make the skin look dull."

And while retinol thickens the lower layers of the skin, he says, it thins out the top layer (the stratum corneum), which creates a dewy glow. 

Retinol's ability to support cell turnover and exfoliate becomes especially useful as we age.

According to board-certified dermatologist Loretta Ciraldo, M.D., FAAD, we actually shed dead skin cells at a slower rate as we get older, but retinol can move things along.

While it's normal for our skin to change as we get older, sun exposure can speed up the process. This can lead to photo-aged skin, which is characterized by wrinkles, increased texture, thinning, and hyperpigmentation.

But thanks to its capability to support collagen synthesis and cell turnover, retinol has become a top choice for reversing signs of photodamage. 

For starters, sun exposure causes oxidative stress, which destroys collagen fibers.

Vitamin A, including retinol, is also critical for proper wound healing. This comes down to—you guessed it—collagen formation and cell turnover5.

Both processes help your skin regenerate tissue, which supports the repair and closure of a wound. Plus, the better your wound heals, the less likely you are to develop scarring or an infection. Phew.

 Again, this is important as you get older. Cells in mature skin are slower to respond to wound healing6, which decreases their ability to rapidly grow and multiply.

Retinol is a gold standard of acne treatment. After it interacts with the skin's receptors, it beneficially alters the genes involved with inflammation and cell growth.

This reduces the formation of microcomedones7, or skin pores clogged with sebum, bacteria, and dead skin cells. Microcomedones are the precursors to all pimples, so stopping them can make a huge difference.

Retinol also exfoliates within the pores, "where slowed dead cell shedding leads to enlarged pore appearance and breakouts," says Ciraldo.

The retinoic acid family includes both natural and synthetic derivatives6. Some forms include compounds like retinaldehyde and retinyl esters. These derivatives are created when retinol goes through oxidation, a reaction that changes its electrons. Most notably, retinol is a precursor to retinoic acid, which means it converts to retinoic acid when applied topically. 

Thanks to its knack for cell turnover, retinol is often recommended for people with sun-damaged and mature skin. Its ability to shed dead skin cells will allow newer, healthier cells a chance to shine—giving your skin a glowy pick-me-up.

Retinol, along with its derivatives, can potentially cause unpleasant side effects, known as the "retinoid reaction," skin purging, or retinoid-induced dermatitis. 

"Localized skin irritation—often redness and dryness—is the most common side effect of [using] retinol," explains Palm. This can make it for people with sensitive skin to tolerate, she says. Other possible side effects include peeling, itching, and burning. 

Retinol can also increase photosensitivity10, says Ciraldo, especially at high concentrations. This means it makes your skin more sensitive to the sun, causing a rash or sunburn-like reaction when you're exposed to sunlight.

If your skin refuses to cooperate with retinol, have no fear—bakuchiol is here.

Bakuchiol is a compound found in Psoralea corylifolia, or babchi, a flowering Asian plant. It also has retinol-like properties, making it a natural and gentler alternative to retinol. Bakuchiol works by regulating genes11 in a similar manner yet causes "less dryness, redness, and irritation compared to retinol," notes Palm.