Salicylic Acid & Retinol Together: What The Pros Say

With all of the talk about how beneficial salicylic acid and retinol are for the skin (especially for those prone to breakouts), it's only reasonable to want to know if they can be used in the same routine. 

Before we get into the logistics of combining these products into one routine, let's get to know each powerhouse ingredient. Up first, we have retinol. At its core, retinol is a topical form of vitamin A. 

A quick caveat, the term "retinoid" encompasses all forms of retinol, including both over-the-counter and prescription-grade formulas. The difference between the two categories tends to be the strength, as OTC formulas are generally less potent. 

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (aka BHA), which means it's oil- and fat-soluble. In plain terms, this acid can basically break through the oiliest skin, shimmying deep inside the pores to help unclog them at the source. As a result, it can help exfoliate the skin and remove excess oil, as well as balance sebum levels.

The question you've been asking: Can you use both ingredients simultaneously? The short answer is no, you probably shouldn't. "Mixing salicylic acid and retinol can lead to increased irritation, especially in someone who is prone to dry or sensitive skin," board-certified dermatologist and founder of Maei MD Rebecca Marcus, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg.

Retinol is a notoriously unstable ingredient and should be used with care, so you'll want to proceed with caution whenever pairing it with another product in one setting. The goal here is to isolate your active ingredients (read: use one active per sitting). 

"Salicylic acid and retinol can be used simultaneously, as long as they are not applied at the same time," board-certified dermatologist and founder of NicholsMD of Greenwich Kim Nichols, M.D., FAAD, tells mbg.

"You want to leave enough time in between the application process for each ingredient to deliver optimal results," she adds. In general, this means applying the ingredients at different times of the day, Nichols suggests. 

"Typically, it is recommended to use salicylic acid during the day and retinol at night, as some retinoids are considered photolabile, which means they may become unstable and break down when exposed to the sun, making them less effective when used during the day," Marcus notes. 

When you think of salicylic acid, you might immediately picture a serum. However, you can use this ingredient in mask form as well.

"Salicylic acid masks once or even twice per week are beneficial for detoxifying the skin of impurities, fighting inflammation, and soothing the skin whilst incorporating some hydration and offering brightening and skin-smoothing attributes," Heyday's Esthetician and Skincare Educator Glenise Gomez tells mbg.

"Dry skin will prefer a hydrating mask, as the actives have a gentle delivery, while oily skin can benefit from a clay base," she explains. 

Some (emphasis on some) skin types may benefit from using a daily salicylic acid cleanser, which can be followed by a retinol serum, Marcus says. For most folks this will be too drying if used back-to-back. If you’d like to fold in a salicylic acid cleanser, we suggest using that as you morning wash and retinol in the evening.