How To Take Care Of Curly Hair: Tips From The Experts

Happy, healthy curls are the dream. But how do you make the dream a reality? Well, the answer to that question will be different for everyone. Hair care, and curl care especially, is a very personalized matter.

Answering the question of how to care for your hair isn't a straightforward one because there is so much variety within the hair type! Factors like curl pattern, porosity, scalp conditions, length, and thickness of the hair can all influence what your routine might look like. There is no one-size-fits-all approach to curly hair. In fact, most folks with curly hair change up their routines based on the day! 

Curl type refers to the shape of your curl pattern. It ranges from type 2A and 2B (loose waves) to 4C (tight coils), and everything in between. Broadly, curl types fall into three major types which are type 2 waves, type 3 curls, and type 4 kinks and coils. Within each type, there are three unique subtypes. So, for example, type 4 will have type 4A (densely packed coils), type 4B (zigzag curls), and type 4C (miniature spirals).

While it'd be simpler for curls to be categorically exclusive and stagnant, most people have several patterns on their head—and they may even change depending on the environment or with time.

"Hair porosity describes how the hair's cuticle absorbs and holds on to moisture in its pores—hence, the term porosity," says hairstylist Miko Branch, co-founder of hair care brand Miss Jessie's. 

How long you keep your hair will weigh several of your hair care choices. And I mean that quite literally: Hair length can weigh down your curls, stretching them out and loosening your curl pattern. So if you're interested in keeping the tightness of your curls, you may need a stronger hold curl cream. Another way length influences hair health: It takes longer for oil from the scalp to travel down the hair shaft to condition the ends, so those with long hair may need to apply more leave-in conditioner on the lower half of the hair shaft.

I have wavy and curly hair: When I amp up the curls and keep my hair shorter, they hover around 2C to 3B. Lately, I've been wearing my hair long and purposefully stretching out the curl into looser waves, so I'm a solid 2B. 

Overall curl care is one of my favorite topics in beauty: It took me a long time to figure out how to best care for my hair, and so I love talking to professionals and other people about what they do and recommend. Every curl journey is unique, and I love hearing about them all.

One of the most enduring questions in the beauty space is how often should I wash my hair? It's a complicated question because the actual answer basically boils down to "whatever feels right to you!" 

However, there are best practices for deciphering your ideal wash schedule, and generally those with curly hair should wash less. Because of the curl pattern, it takes longer for the natural oils on the scalp to reach the ends of the hair fiber. When you wash it too frequently, you're continually resetting your oils back to square one (the root), so they never have time to actually make it to the ends.

Now exactly what "washing less" means in practice is entirely up to you and is likely influenced by many other factors. However, just know that if you wear your hair curly, stretching the time between shampoos will help keep the strands conditioned.

It's also important to note that when we say wash less, we mean don't use shampoos. If you need to rinse between shampoos, you certainly can.

"I want to emphasize that wetting, rinsing, and or conditioning the hair daily is not equivalent to shampooing. Shampooing is when a specific cleaning agent is applied to the hair or scalp for hygienic purposes," says trichologist Bridgette Hill.

Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are common cleaning ingredients in shampoos. There is lots of debate about the "toxicity" of the ingredients, but that's a conversation for another time. Those with curly hair should avoid them for one very simple reason: They're very harsh and drying! 

Curly hair is naturally dryer and more prone to breakage, so you need to pick very delicate cleansers. Think of it like your skin: If your skin was prone to irritation, you'd switch to a gentle cleanser, right? Well, the same applies to your strands!

The good news is there are many excellent sulfate-free shampoos on the market. Look for options that are further buffered with hydrating ingredients like botanical oils and butters: Excellent options include shea butter, coconut oil, oat oil, and so on.

Co-washing (or conditioner-washing) can also help keep the hair clean—while hydrating in the process.

"The idea is to use conditioner, though not just any conditioner, as a replacement for shampoo. An ideal co-wash very gently cleanses the hair using mild surfactants, while a typical shampoo uses more concentrated surfactants that really work to deeply cleanse the hair," says Sunny, owner of Lumiere Vive Salon.

Oh, wouldn't it be so simple if detangling was as easy as running a brush through your hair? Alas, people with curls don't really have that option. "In textured hair, the cuticle is slightly lifted, and normal daily friction can easily cause strands to tangle and knot around themselves," says hairstylist and cosmetologist Faith Huffnagle, director of education at Prose, says about detangling.

Being too rough during the detangling process can mean breakage and other kinds of physical damage, such as split ends. To avoid that, thoroughly coat the hair with a detangler. Detanglers create a physical barrier around the hair fiber to protect it during the combing process.

If you want to detangle in the shower or when the hair is already wet, a conditioner can also do the trick.

Curly hair needs hydration. And lots of it. I practically drown my hair in conditioner! My bathroom is littered with shampoo bottles that hardly have a dent made in them, while I can't seem to keep my stockpile of conditioner adequately supplied because I'm using it so fast.

"Conditioner's role is to increase the moisture content of the hair and improve its elasticity, smooth the cuticle, and soften the hair fiber," writes Sarah Roberts, a hair consultant and author of You and Your Hair: The Ultimate Healthy Hair Masterclass for Afro Textured Hair in a previous story about the types of conditioner. And because curly hair naturally struggles with hydration and elasticity, it's a vital step in caring for the strands.

Hair hydration doesn't end in the shower—to the contrary. How you hydrate your hair after washing will make a world of difference in how the curls take and hold their shape.

Curls are structurally fragile. That's because at each bend and curve, there's more opportunity for breakage. So those with curls need to be more cautious about how much they style and process their hair, as it has the potential to weaken the strands further.

A small lesson as to why: Hair fibers are actually held together by hydrogen bonds. These hydrogen bonds can be broken down by heat and other chemical processes. For example, when you flatiron your curls, the bonds are broken down and manipulated so the hair appears straight.

They can then be "reset" by water (which is why your curls spring back when wet). However, when they are continually manipulated, it can erode these bonds resulting in damaged hair and lifeless curls.

This is not to say that coloring, chemically altering, or heat styling is a hard no—however, it is to say that it requires more care and attention when you do it.

The best way to keep curls intact is through silk accessories. Tossing and turning at night can mean tangles and frizz.

"Sleep with a silk or satin pillowcase, head scarf, or cap, which allows hair to slide as you toss and turn while sleeping. Silk and satin prevent friction—which leads to hair pulling, tugging, stretching, breaking, and tangling—and these smooth fabrics help retain the hair's natural oils," says Branch. But the benefits of silk don't stop there: It is hypoallergenic, antimicrobial1 moisture-wicking, and breathable.

And when styles start to fall flat, a curl refresher or mist of water can help curls spring back.

Most of those with curly hair will need to mix and match a few products to get their desired look. This can mean anything from mixing oils with curl creams to smoothing serums with mousses or gels, says Morales.

"The serum gives the strands a silky, polished appearance, while the mousse adds volume and defines curls without weighing them down," says Morales. "Or another great mix is coconut oil and styling gel, as it allows supreme hold without leaving your curls crunchy and dry."

The right haircut can bring curls to life—creating dimension, volume, the appearance of density, more movement, and improved curl pattern. 

Often curly hair cuts are done on dry hair: So before cutting, the stylist will wash, diffuse, and style the hair so that they can experience the natural curl pattern. This will also guide the stylist where to create layers, as they can see how the strands fall.  

Hair oils are a valuable tool for almost all hair types—but especially for those with curly hair. Oils can help seal in hydration, create a protective barrier on top of the hair fiber to help buffer against damage, and provide nutrients.

There is nothing more frustrating than getting your curls perfectly set, styled, and bouncy—only for them to appear flat come morning. Figuring out how to best protect your curls while you sleep is one of the biggest game changers on your hair styling journey. Once you figure out how to do so, it can mean less heat styling, more time between washes, and less wear-and-tear overall.

Throughout this article, I’ve talked at length about how everyone's routine will be unique to them. And, hate to say it, but this section is no different! How you protect your curls in the evening will be dependent on your curl pattern, styling goals for the next day, product preference, how oily your scalp gets, and so on.