What Is Dimethicone & Is It Bad For Skin & Hair? Let's Investigate The Ingredient

When it comes to buzzy beauty ingredients, there's one famous (or infamous, depending on your worldview) player found in a slew of beauty products but isn't always referred to as the good guy. Enter, dimethicone. It sounds science-y (note: It is), and chances are if you do a quick Google search, you'll find a ton of conflicting information that will leave you a bit unsure.

Should you steer clear of this ingredient altogether or hoard every product that has it listed on the label? (Spoiler: While not harmful, we believe you should treat it with caution.)

According to cosmetic chemists Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu, founders of Chemist Confessions, dimethicone is a type of silicone. "It can come in various polymer sizes and range from a thin fluid to a thick and gooey consistency," they say. They continue that it's often used to help create an elegant formula that feels great on the skin (and hair). 

The main reason? Texture, texture, texture. Soft, smooth, and silky texture makes a skin care product super appealing, and it makes the experience of using it more, well, luxurious and enjoyable. 

There's lots of talk about the good, bad, and ugly of including silicones like dimethicone in your beauty routine. And the truth is: Not all silicones are created equal. See, some silicones (cyclosiloxanes D4 and D5, specifically) are shown to be potentially hazardous for human health and can also bioaccumulate in our water supply2. But researchers were able to develop water-soluble silicones that are generally fine to use: They are easier to remove, aren't as sticky of an occlusive, and don't bioaccumulate. Dimethicone falls into that latter category.

"Dimethicone is often accused of 'suffocating' skin," Fu and Lu say, which isn't always the case—for some, especially those with drier skin types, locking in moisture is just what they need. (Of course, natural oils can effectively do the same thing and simultaneously feed the skin with antioxidants, fatty acids, and amino acids. But a product with dimethicone can provide occlusive benefits.) 

As for the hair, Engelman says using silicones, like dimethicone, can build up easily in the hair and block water and nourishment from getting past the protective outer cuticle. This eventually can make the hair dry and brittle, and it may even weigh the hair down and make it appear flat. "Those with curly hair and fine hair should be careful of this," she warns. 

Well, it's hard to say. We need more research to make the call, but all three experts agree that dimethicone is (generally) nothing to worry about, so long as you make sure you're properly cleansing your hair and skin to avoid buildup. "The amount of dimethicone in your beauty products is often very minimal and not harmful to the body," Engelman says. "Although an excess of this ingredient is not recommended, you don't need to be alarmed if you see it in your products." 

Fu and Lu add, from a formulator perspective, dimethicone is a great ingredient to include for its silky texture: "It can help create a beautiful moisturizer suitable for oily skin types as well as create fantastic conditioners that really help to protect the hair." Again, just be mindful that it can be difficult to remove and causes buildup over time since it does create a film over the skin and hair. 

And if you do find that you're experiencing an allergic reaction or breakouts from this ingredient, it's probably best to avoid it and talk to your dermatologist or hairstylist.