Cosmeceuticals In Skin Care: What To Know About These Topicals

If you're an avid skin care fan, you've likely had your fair share of deciphering "science-y" terms. One particularly common word is "cosmeceutical," which often appears on labels and marketing materials of topical products. But what is a cosmeceutical, exactly? Here, we explain the ins and outs of cosmeceuticals, plus tips for finding the best one.

It's worth noting that "cosmeceutical" has no legal definition. (More on that in a bit.) The term might be used to describe a product with active ingredients. Other times, it may be used to describe an active ingredient in a product (think oral supplements or topical formulas, like serums). For the sake of simplicity, "cosmeceutical" in this article will be used to refer to active ingredients themselves.

But since the term "cosmeceutical" is not regulated by the FDA in skin care, it has no legal definition. The word can be used in different ways by different brands; however, there are key signs to look for to ensure a brand is using it correctly and accurately. Remember: Just because there isn't a legal definition of a word doesn't mean that brands don't use language judiciously and with intention. In fact, here are signs that a brand is up-to-par. 

If you're interested in trying skin care products labeled as cosmeceuticals, keep the following points in mind. These factors will increase your chances of finding a quality and effective product:

"Look for brands who are transparent about their product sourcing [and] quality ingredients," suggests Grant. This openness and honesty show that the brand cares about their consumers and, ultimately, has nothing to hide. You can determine a brand's level of transparency by the accessibility of their product info. It should be easy to find details about their International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI) lists, quality standards, whether the product is backed by dermatologists, and so on. 

Here's the thing: "Many actives are available from a wide array of ingredient manufacturers," explains board-certified dermatologist Loretta Ciraldo, M.D., FAAD. "The actual degree of penetration into skin, as well as the bioavailability of the active, will vary depending on the sourcing." Thus, the best companies will choose active ingredients that have plenty of clinical testing behind them. They'll also have done independent trials to show that their finished products yield the promised results, explains Henry. This is key for upholding cosmeceutical claims—since, again, the realm of cosmeceuticals is an unregulated space, notes Henry. So, when a product contains scientifically backed actives, it shows that the brand went the extra mile to produce a product that's effective.

Typically, choosing formulas with minimal filler or inactive ingredients is the way to go. As Ciraldo notes for topicals, brands always call out the active ingredients that can produce desired visible improvements. However, "it's important to understand that 'inactive ingredients' like preservatives, sulfates, [and] ethyl alcohol can also affect the skin, often resulting in some unwanted effects." That said, Ciraldo recommends reading the entire ingredient deck, not just the ones called out by the brand. "Familiarize yourself with each brand's ethos, what ingredients they avoid, [and] the credibility of their claims," she adds. In doing so, you'll be more likely to find a product that works.

Additionally, cosmeceuticals tend to be more expensive—as they should be formulated at potent doses, kept stable, not to mention the ingredients themselves tend to be more pricey to start with. This is something to be mindful of when looking at products marketed as "cosmeceuticals."

When it comes to finding an effective cosmeceutical, it's crucial to understand your skin. This will take time and experimentation, but it will be worth it. "Knowing your skin type will help you find products that [are] most beneficial for your skin goals," explains Grant. Sound advice for all aspects of skin care, cosmeceuticals included.

Here, some of the most well-known cosmeceuticals that you'll likely find in products:

Cosmeceuticals are ingredients that are claimed to have medicinal properties for the skin. But the term "cosmeceutical" has no legal definition in skin care at this time, so the definition varies brand by brand.