What Is Alpha Arbutin & How Does It Affect Your Skin? Experts Explain

Let's be honest, the skin care industry is all about buzzy ingredients. (For better or for worse.) Well, this new-to-me ingredient had me at hello because banishing dark spots and hyperpigmentation is No. 1 on my priority list.

So, once I got wind of the super lightener alpha arbutin, I knew I had to add this to my beauty arsenal.

According to cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos, arbutin is a naturally occurring chemical found in some botanical extracts like bearberry, cranberry, and Japanese pear. Arbutin is, essentially, a natural variant of the controversial hydroquinone. The latter is controversial for several reasons, like severe sensitivity, photosensitivity, irritation, and contamination issues. 

However, with alpha arbutin hydroquinone is slowly released into the skin, making the side effects far less severe (if present at all).

Arbutin works by stopping dark spots from forming—unlike exfoliators, which slough off surface-level pigment, or other antioxidants, which fight free radical damage resulting in a brighter appearance overall.

"Arbutin works to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme present in melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the skin," says board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Jow Libby, M.D. "This results in less pigment, dark spots and skin lightening."

Not to mention, it has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, too and there is some laboratory evidence that it may even help fight off melanoma1. 

In case you're wondering, many use the terms alpha arbutin and arbutin interchangeably, and that's because alpha arbutin is simply a variant of the original chemical.

"There are two isomers of arbutin, the alpha and beta forms," Dobos says. "They differ in structure and properties."

Even though alpha arbutin is the beloved skin brightener, it can be a bit questionable since it is a form of hydroquinone. In fact, Libby says alpha arbutin actually works by slowly releasing hydroquinone to lighten the skin.

But that is, in fact, one of the reasons experts are reaching for this ingredient for reducing hyperpigmentation. Since the hydroquinone is slowly released, the pesky side effects and questionable toxicity of hydroquinone aren't really a big deal. 

Libby says the short answer is if you're looking to minimize, fade, and treat dark spots on the skin, alpha arbutin is worth a try.

But since it is a form of hydroquinone, it's best to steer clear of this ingredient while pregnant and/or breastfeeding.

Alpha arbutin is an answer to reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation and dark spots. It's generally great for all skin types but should be avoided if you're a soon-to-be or nursing mama. Let's just say, we wouldn't be surprised if alpha arbutin starts popping up all over beauty shelves in the near future. Yes, it's that good.